Thursday, August 6, 2015

We went to market...

There is no reason why I am comparing Medellin to Maracaibo other than that it was while visiting this city that I came into full consciousness of the fact that I now live in a full-blown third world country. I have loved living in Maracaibo, in Venezuela, for over 40 years, and have resisted the thought of leaving to the point of being one of the hard core holdouts who could leave if they wanted to but have chosen to stay. Things go down hill little by little and you adapt, little by little. Sometimes it takes a trip to step back and realize what's really happening.
I have spent time in the US over the past years, and, yes, the differences are enormous. But then, things have always been different in the US. Perhaps its because Medellin is a Latin American city, in neighboring Colombia, that used to be worse off than we were... or maybe it was the four hour wait in a hot Maracaibo airport for our flight out, that seemed more like being in a popular market than an airport, overcrowded, noisy, hot.....
Anyway, whatever the reason, this trip has left me pulling back, leaving Venezuela emotionally, even though I still live there.

Yesterday we went to a supermarket in Medellin...Exito, which used to be an option in Maracaibo. It was full. Not sure exactly why, at 10:30 on a Wednesday morning, but it seemed to be mostly people doing their weekly shopping, with carts full. We only had a handful of items. We got in line...a long line... with 3 full carts ahead of us. I noticed that at each cashier there were one or two plastic chairs, placed right in front of the magazine display, and they were being enjoyed by elderly customers. There were quite a few customers in their golden years. I've found that it is common here to see people in wheelchairs, with canes, or leaning on the arms of family members or caregivers, in shopping centers and malls. Not so much in Venezuela.
The woman ahead of us turned around, looked at the few things in my hands, and graciously insisted that we go ahead of her.  The store was crowded, but it was a totally normal and pleasant experience. We found everything we needed, and actually had options to choose from...


....and then there's the shopping experience in Venezuela.

OK. The picture is a bit of an exaggeration, but not by that much. Every day you see more and more stories about looting, and violence in the looooong lines that are commonplace in Venezuelan markets. The lines begin forming at dawn in some places. In the market where I usually shop that isn't the case (yet), but as soon as some of the hard to find, price-regulated items come out on the floor the crowd quickly increases. Everyone in the store begins to call or text friends and family to tell them what is available. The professional shoppers, bachaqueros, who resell at  300-400% the regulated prices (often in Colombia), begin to flood the place. The lines wind around the store, up and down the aisles, and it can easily take you hours to pay and leave with only a few of the things you wanted when you came into the store. There are no chairs for the older customers...in fact, you don't see too many elderly people in the supermarket. It's not safe. The people waiting in line eat some food before getting to the cashier, leaving the empty containers on the shelves...or floor. It's a general disaster and you never know when there might be a mini-riot (see above picture) or a squabble between customers that might turn a bit violent. If you are buying regulated products you have to register your fingerprint so that you can't buy anymore of the same for a week. Oh, yes, and you can forget about anyone kindly suggesting that you go ahead of them in line.  In general it's a totally degrading and unpleasant experience....and getting worse every day.
This isn't even the Maracaibo I lived in for so many years...it's an unfriendly new place that I really can't fathom.

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